It was a about 1.5 miles away from where we pitched last night, we had walked 16+ miles to get to Toll Point
Thursday 29 November 2012
Walking up Helford River
We had to walk to Helford Passage as ferries were not running, what fools walk the SWCoast Path in winter!
29th NOV. NARE POINT to FALMOUTH
I suppose I would of slept well if I had not been woken by a dog sniffing outside the tent at 3.30am , then someone saying "Leave Grenard!" . It was full moon, and I could see in the green glow of the tent , Josh whispered what's that?I indicated for him to stay quiet. It was a little disconcerning as it was hardly the time for a morning dog walk.We lay still.Silence except waves on the shore. Then an on going growling sound as is the dog had got something....maybe my boots ?! Maybe that other walker! After a few mins the sound ,eerie sound ,stopped and I could hear who ever it was move off. I lay there then popped my head out of the tent but could see no one , the moon was bright though.It took abit of time for us to doze off.
I awoke an hour later to another growling , slobbering sound of a dog , it was about 4.30.A rather clipped voice said " Give it a shake boy!" , I pictured a tweed and Hunter welly chap , then realised they were rabbiting. It was still disconcerting though and I dozed until 6 then put the radio on.
There was a few light showers on the tent , nothing major , it was still and the tent outer was soaked with condensation on its inner , if that makes sense. It had been a clear night and was fairly chilly , but the bags kept us warm enough.
We had hardly any breaky stuff or fuel , but I felt I just wanted to get going , especially after last night. I woke J at 6.45 , and we got going without any breaky or tea in anticipation of getting something on route. Handling the wet tent and its poles chilled the hands but otherwise we were fairly snug in our winter wear.We packed up with head torches on and was away at 7.30.
It was about a mile to Flushing and the ferry which if we had been doing this in season would of taken us across to Dennis Head, also the tide was to high to take the stepping stones which apparently are there at low tide. It now meant a two mile hike around the other side. We licked small jam portions as we walked feeling at least we had them.
To make the day extra fun we also had a ferry from Helford to Helford Passage that was not running at this time of year , that meant a 7 mile hike to Gweek . From there we had hoped to replace the ferry with a bus to Helford Passage. I had looked briefly on line using the mobile to sus out the bus time tables. This was my first mistake . I had read that the bus would be at 11.32am from Gweek which meant we would have to get a move on, the next bus after that was 2pm!
It would be mainly road walking so we did not hang around and strode out. We both were in good humour.In Manaccan we stopped briefly to get food/breaky. This consisted of chocolate , digestive bics, crisps and a large bottle of cheap traditional lemonade full sugar. We looked longingly at other items but these small village shops really eat into our budget, and own brand cheapist is our choice for eating in bulk.
it was only about 8.40 .
The time walking was spent chatting ; Josh has a thing about Pirates and at any opportunity breaks into Cornish Pirate mode. When I messingly supped from the 2 litre lemonade bottle, with lemonade spilling down my beard he said ,in his 'Jim Lad' accent, that it was so cheap you can drink it like a drunken pirate. I could not stop laughing spilling more.
We shed layers as we warmed up , stopped to get rid of rubbish as we passed bins, and to take the odd photo. We arrive in Gweek about 11, as we walked down the road to the bus stop a bus passed us . I joked that was our bus. As it happened it was, I had read the Sunday timetable. The next bus was at 1 , which was agood thing. I toyed with the idea of walking the additional 7 miles to Helford Passage , but on discussing with J it was decided to wait and feast from the local Premier shop.
We sat in the bus stop , I made a visit to the boat yard nearby and washed the cooking stuff in the nearby river. I was getting chilled waiting and sitting. Just before 2 I stood in the shelter waiting, pack and J ready. A bus cme along and I stopped it , I did not see the number, but guessed it was ours. I jumped on as the bus driver appeared in a hurry and stopped short. I stupidly said Helston passage , and he said he was going straight to Falmouth. I thought he meant direct so got off. I looked at my watch it was gone 2 . It was our bus and I had let it go , I was stood on it , we had waited almost two hours for it. I was livid with myself , gutted that we had wasted the time getting chilled. Right Josh we are walking , we can do this.
As it happened the anger in myself fueled my determination , and I walked at a constant speed, poor J in tow.We used the Viewranger GPS phone app to navigate the ordnance survey map on the phone , a great piece of kit .... if you get a chance to use this app and do alot of walking you will not regret it.Anyway we weaved our way to Helford Passage via Polwheveral and its 'probably best pub in the world '.Sadly we did not stop for a pint to find out!Porth Navas felt inland but the sight of yachts said otherwise. We got to Helford Passage, a few folk sat around as if waiting for a ferry , I did not ask and said to J to keep going as I did not want to find out that the ferry was running.
The path now was amazingly good, fairly dry to what we had been walking on, in my cinical mind I said it was because this was an estate and therefore had preferential treatment.There was one bad bit just before Toll Point, a stream was in flood and drowned the path. At Rosemullion Head I could see where we had pitched last night just over 1.5 miles away across the Helford River mouth, yep the thing we had walked 16 plus miles around.
The going was good until reaching Bream Cove then the path disappeared and we found ourselves in brambles and barb wire, we could not find the rioute so took a dog leg inland to a road that took us to Maenporth. We phoned the Falmouth Backpackers Hostel to ensure all this effort was not in vain and there was a place for us . Yep no prob. I said we would be there for 6pm, which would mean walking the last three miles in fading and dark. We put our head torches on and walked a thankfully good path to Pennance Point , the sea was so calm and various ships stood off shore reflecting there lights into the dark sea, then onto Swanpool Point and finally into bright street lit Falmouth.
We found the hostel thanks to the mobile phone street map. It was so good to arrive, we had worked hard to get here , over twenty miles walked and my feet groaned mercy. We paid the £38 for two dorm beds , which was empty except for us so it was like a double room. We shed our smell stuff , spread ourselves out drying things, plus hand washing clothes, and ourselves in the shower. We wondered into the nearby high street, I think the xmas lights had been put on because crowds of folk mingled about. We feasted on a SUBWAY and bought a litre of ice cream each...yum!
We returned and for once I was able to use a desktop computer to do this BLOG, so much easier than a small mobile phone key board. Pleased with our determination and progress. I have the tent to repair tomorrow so I do not know the time we will get out of Falmouth. The time now is 11.20 and I will relax and watch abit of TV.
I awoke an hour later to another growling , slobbering sound of a dog , it was about 4.30.A rather clipped voice said " Give it a shake boy!" , I pictured a tweed and Hunter welly chap , then realised they were rabbiting. It was still disconcerting though and I dozed until 6 then put the radio on.
There was a few light showers on the tent , nothing major , it was still and the tent outer was soaked with condensation on its inner , if that makes sense. It had been a clear night and was fairly chilly , but the bags kept us warm enough.
We had hardly any breaky stuff or fuel , but I felt I just wanted to get going , especially after last night. I woke J at 6.45 , and we got going without any breaky or tea in anticipation of getting something on route. Handling the wet tent and its poles chilled the hands but otherwise we were fairly snug in our winter wear.We packed up with head torches on and was away at 7.30.
It was about a mile to Flushing and the ferry which if we had been doing this in season would of taken us across to Dennis Head, also the tide was to high to take the stepping stones which apparently are there at low tide. It now meant a two mile hike around the other side. We licked small jam portions as we walked feeling at least we had them.
To make the day extra fun we also had a ferry from Helford to Helford Passage that was not running at this time of year , that meant a 7 mile hike to Gweek . From there we had hoped to replace the ferry with a bus to Helford Passage. I had looked briefly on line using the mobile to sus out the bus time tables. This was my first mistake . I had read that the bus would be at 11.32am from Gweek which meant we would have to get a move on, the next bus after that was 2pm!
It would be mainly road walking so we did not hang around and strode out. We both were in good humour.In Manaccan we stopped briefly to get food/breaky. This consisted of chocolate , digestive bics, crisps and a large bottle of cheap traditional lemonade full sugar. We looked longingly at other items but these small village shops really eat into our budget, and own brand cheapist is our choice for eating in bulk.
it was only about 8.40 .
The time walking was spent chatting ; Josh has a thing about Pirates and at any opportunity breaks into Cornish Pirate mode. When I messingly supped from the 2 litre lemonade bottle, with lemonade spilling down my beard he said ,in his 'Jim Lad' accent, that it was so cheap you can drink it like a drunken pirate. I could not stop laughing spilling more.
We shed layers as we warmed up , stopped to get rid of rubbish as we passed bins, and to take the odd photo. We arrive in Gweek about 11, as we walked down the road to the bus stop a bus passed us . I joked that was our bus. As it happened it was, I had read the Sunday timetable. The next bus was at 1 , which was agood thing. I toyed with the idea of walking the additional 7 miles to Helford Passage , but on discussing with J it was decided to wait and feast from the local Premier shop.
We sat in the bus stop , I made a visit to the boat yard nearby and washed the cooking stuff in the nearby river. I was getting chilled waiting and sitting. Just before 2 I stood in the shelter waiting, pack and J ready. A bus cme along and I stopped it , I did not see the number, but guessed it was ours. I jumped on as the bus driver appeared in a hurry and stopped short. I stupidly said Helston passage , and he said he was going straight to Falmouth. I thought he meant direct so got off. I looked at my watch it was gone 2 . It was our bus and I had let it go , I was stood on it , we had waited almost two hours for it. I was livid with myself , gutted that we had wasted the time getting chilled. Right Josh we are walking , we can do this.
As it happened the anger in myself fueled my determination , and I walked at a constant speed, poor J in tow.We used the Viewranger GPS phone app to navigate the ordnance survey map on the phone , a great piece of kit .... if you get a chance to use this app and do alot of walking you will not regret it.Anyway we weaved our way to Helford Passage via Polwheveral and its 'probably best pub in the world '.Sadly we did not stop for a pint to find out!Porth Navas felt inland but the sight of yachts said otherwise. We got to Helford Passage, a few folk sat around as if waiting for a ferry , I did not ask and said to J to keep going as I did not want to find out that the ferry was running.
The path now was amazingly good, fairly dry to what we had been walking on, in my cinical mind I said it was because this was an estate and therefore had preferential treatment.There was one bad bit just before Toll Point, a stream was in flood and drowned the path. At Rosemullion Head I could see where we had pitched last night just over 1.5 miles away across the Helford River mouth, yep the thing we had walked 16 plus miles around.
The going was good until reaching Bream Cove then the path disappeared and we found ourselves in brambles and barb wire, we could not find the rioute so took a dog leg inland to a road that took us to Maenporth. We phoned the Falmouth Backpackers Hostel to ensure all this effort was not in vain and there was a place for us . Yep no prob. I said we would be there for 6pm, which would mean walking the last three miles in fading and dark. We put our head torches on and walked a thankfully good path to Pennance Point , the sea was so calm and various ships stood off shore reflecting there lights into the dark sea, then onto Swanpool Point and finally into bright street lit Falmouth.
We found the hostel thanks to the mobile phone street map. It was so good to arrive, we had worked hard to get here , over twenty miles walked and my feet groaned mercy. We paid the £38 for two dorm beds , which was empty except for us so it was like a double room. We shed our smell stuff , spread ourselves out drying things, plus hand washing clothes, and ourselves in the shower. We wondered into the nearby high street, I think the xmas lights had been put on because crowds of folk mingled about. We feasted on a SUBWAY and bought a litre of ice cream each...yum!
We returned and for once I was able to use a desktop computer to do this BLOG, so much easier than a small mobile phone key board. Pleased with our determination and progress. I have the tent to repair tomorrow so I do not know the time we will get out of Falmouth. The time now is 11.20 and I will relax and watch abit of TV.
Wednesday 28 November 2012
28th NOV. ENYS HEAD to MEN-AVER BEACH near Nare Point
I did not get to sleep until midnight. I could feel the temperture falling. I pulled the cord tighter so the hood of the sleeping bag tightened to stop cold air coming in and warm out.
I slept well even though my mat had a puncture. Due to an issue with J last night we had no water for breaky so reluctantly I climbed from warm bag to cold air tent. It was now 7 , I had put off getting out. I climbed out the tent pulled on cold wet boots and my Snugpak, lights of fishing boats drifted by, a slight breeze chilled me more and I blew into cold hands and pulled my hill hat on. It was still dim light.
I do not know if it was the chill but the packing up took minter than usual and we started off at 8 ,hungry!
The route on was wet and mud path but walking in the sun almost compensated for that.
At Kennack Sands we sat brewing a tea and making cheese sandwiches next to the lifeless life guards hut , water from the loos, or at least the sink in the loos. The sun was bright but warmed us only in spirit. The council chap collecting rubbish sat in his van for almost an hour on his phone......great job!
The going today was varied and not that easy. It was a
Up and down mud fest getting to Black Head. The white washed coast guard lookout was open and would of been great to sleep in, it was warm inside like a conservatory, sadly we got on.
We took the inland route via a sculpture park by a Terence Coventry, large pieces of work mainly based on birds in bronze.
We enterered the twee Coverack village, very upper class and exclusive. The post office shop had a great selection of stuff but out of our price range so we bought cereal ,coco pops, Josh's choice and Jaffa cakes. These we consumed in the sun warmed perspex clad bus shelter. We also got a newspaper to check our crossword effort.
Eventually we got on, the path was washed out, and as we rounded Lowland point we waded in mud and water, probably the wettest of the walk. It was unavoidable but still tried to use the odd stepping stone.
At Trevean Quarry the going was alot drier and crushed granite led us passed the workless area before heading inland.
A chap stood by one of the concrete buildings looking shifty. A military helicopter circled and all we could think this chap was on exercise, the copter chaps waved, we returned the gesture hoping for a free trip. We probably looked military in our green snugpaks and backpacks.
The path took us inland, the wooden bridge crossing a stream was covered in gravel washed down from the path. So much rain damage to the paths.
We weaved on lanes to Porthallow feeling guilty we did not stop at Fat Apple cafe and regretting we had not as no shop had food, there was engines and art things but no bloody food without going in the 5 Pilchards pub.
At the bay was a marker stating we were half way through the South West Coast Path at 315 miles out of the 630.
We looked at pebbles, J wanting an ear ring to replace the one he lost, he found a plastic thing which did the job. He has this stretched piercing which luckily is not over stretched like some I had seen.... not pretty in my eyes!
We ended the days walk heading for Nare point and a couple of miles on. I asked the tide times at the coast watch lookout there. Had a look around and chat with the chaps there before purchasing tins of pepsi to supplement our lack of food.
We pitched further on before Gillan. Then tent pole needing a repair and sheathing. It was a chilly night. I managed to do a pasta oxo curry cuppa soup affair out of our limited supplies.
It looks like the walk tomorrow is going to be fiddly with seasonal ferries not running and tides not helping at the time we arrive at the Flushing crossing meaning a two mile detour.
A chap passed by calling us as we lay in the tent, he to was backpacking but in the opposite the direction. We gleened info about our obstacles ahead and wished him well as he disappeared in the dark.
Tuesday 27 November 2012
27th NOV. LOE BAR TO ENYS HEAD (near Cadgwith)
Woke at six. Very dark except the small windows slightly lighter.Knocked the silver fish out of bowls and got water on for porridge. Hanging up of water containers made it easier to fill bowls.It was raining, I had expected a dry start from the Met Office phone app.
Head torches on we sat upright eating our porridge .We got packed up.I was surprised how clean things were and how easy it was getting sorted especially as our routines were all over the place. The good thing was we had a dry tent and it was a very wet morning.
On starting we walked across the soft sands of the Loe Bar, swans from yesterday still bobbed on the lake.
We had a steady climb passed a memorial to 100 lost of HMS ACTON.
The paths and terrain was sopping wet. There must of been more rain last night than I thought because paths were streams and retaining walls peed water and in places walls had collapsed.
I felt good and determined to get on. J at times seemed slow and shocked by the more mobile me. My knee was alot better, I had it with the warming neoprene support and it seemed to be working. Also the terrain although soaking wet was flatter with shorter descents and ascents.
We walked passed church cove, a small church with tower built into the cliff.Also Poldhu Point where Marconi. transmitted for the first time across the Atlantic in the early 1900 s. Clutching my mobile phone it is amazing how far we have come.
We walked into Mullion for biscuits, sitting on our packs outside the Spar store and, dunking discounted choc digestives in a decent cup of coffee...bliss!
We left for Mullion Cove doing a crossword from the i newspaper...frustrating but fun. Repairs were being completed to the small harbour wall while the tide was out.
We climbed up another stream path, our feet therefore our socks soaked.
The route almost to Lizard Point was flat cliff top walking...incredibly wet like a mega puddle. The coastline was contrastingly rugged, ship wrecking rocky stacks dotted the sea- Gull, Lion, the Horse.
At Kynance Cove we dropped to a closed National Trust cafe sitting eating more biscuits before continuing along a more undulating cliff walk to Lizard Point and lighthouse. A few blokes posed for me working on damaged footpaths, one of them knocking over the tool filled wheelbarrow in his haste to grab a work piece. Unsung heros! They will certainly have their hands full with the amount of erosion to the paths from the rain washing them out.
We got to the lighthouse, passed a lovely but closed youth hostel which was actually at the spot of its name and not three miles away like Lands End hostel.
At the closed until boxing day lighthouse we found a stand pipe and sat again eating bics with tea. It took so long boiling the water we had to tip half the tea away as we needed to get on. We popped into Lizard village in its winter depressed state. I bought sugar from the butchers. Josh noted there were about three Serpentine rock shops ...competiton must be rife.
We walked on via Church cove with its thatched cottages then the slowest part of the day a wet meandering path. I had wanted to get to Kennack Sands. We did not make it as the path was detoured due to path erosion at Devils Frying Pan..... not a sinister cafe!
Light was dimming as we walked down into Cadgwith with even more thatched cottages.
We were force to stop at Enys Head. Light was rapidly going. I pitched the tent J fetched water.
It was good to be in the tent. Cosy and snug ....familiar and for the time being ...home!
26th NOV. PENZANCE YMCA TO LOE BAR ( NEAR PORTHLEVEN)
The day started in usual fashion in a hostel; I wake up ,pack some gear, wake Josh then go and start breaky. The main thing is to ensure J is moving. The breaky was included in the £15 price. You help yourself to a continential breakfast in other words-toast,tea and cereal.
We scoffed the numerous slices of toast and jams watching the news and details the various flood warnings....again so pleased to have spent alot of it in the hostel.
I had expected the weather to be wetter than it was as it was forecast for wet from early morning.
We left the hostel around 9 walking into the town centre again. A slight drizzle began, we were fully clad in our reproofed waterproofs in attempt to stay drier than saturday.
The high street was devoid of running water, reassuring. I would of loved to pop into Wetherspoons for a morning coffee but I knew we needed to get on.
We popped into Iceland to get cheap cheese then strode out passed the bus station, a little confused at how to get on the coast path, J getting impatient with me saying to take the road. I told him to sod off and eventually found the cycle path and coast path between rail and beach.
It was an easy intro to the day , dipping to the beach to look at stones .....simple pleasures!
The rain became more intense as we walked into Marazion. St.Michaels Mount had been on the scene since leaving Penzance, now we were as close as we could be without going the short strand to the castle hill island. A chap drove to the causeway in a rather grand car, stopped as if unsure, J and I laughed at the possibility of giving him directions seaward.
The showers eased as we met footpath but the going eas muddy and wet though flat easy walking.
At Perran sands a few surfers sat out waiting on a waveless sea, it certainly was not as commercially surf shop as the northern Cornish coast. We sat by the loos in the car park snacking on bics and tins of drink from the cheap shop in Penzance. We have to watch the money so no more expensive energy drinks for J. I also bought J a cheap £1 scan radio to replace the one he lost. He cringed when I gave him it.
We rounded Cudden Point to Prussia Cove, J putting on a pirate voice calling it Crushing Cove.
We passed with envy eyes at a beautiful house on the cliff top with fantastic curved walls.
We soon dropped to another surf beach after about a hour called Praa Sands, we sat again in slight drizzle sheltering by the smelly toilets for an other snack watching the surfers on fairly good waves.
Our socks were wet from the mud wet paths and fairly heavy showers followed us into Porthleven. I felt a little chilled, the rain colder or at least to me colder. We were going to make a tea but could find no tap in the harbour, also the shops were more arty or closed I and I could not find an ordinary shop that sold anything but art . A chap looking like an old sea dog said The Lizard was not far boys.
We sat sheltering by a church next to the harbour then decided to miss the tea and get on.
It was a good route to the Loe Bar, a strip of sand separating the sea from a fresh water lake. It was about 4.30. We could of walked on but we stopped and sheltered at an old concrete war look out. It was half full of mud, with a puddle in the middle. We decided to stop there for the novelty. We could not stand upright but thought we could spend the night in the drier half. It was cramped, the soil floor we laid plastic bags to protect our inflatable mats and I put tent hooks in cracks to make hangers for our gear to keep it out of the dirt. We got all our stuff out and a heavy shower came and water started running in. We rechanneled the water in and outside almost regretting not pitching the tent. Trying to keep our gear dry and mud free was a challenge. J spilling water on my sleeping bag and I putting wet waterproof on it did not help. Silver fish scuttled on the walls and dropped into our bowls, good job we are not sqweemish.
Although cramp we got to sleep.
Sunday 25 November 2012
25th NOV. PENZANCE
I know this is a continuous walk but we felt that as our gear was not dry and the forecast of further rain was exceptional conditions. We rebooked and are staying put only walking the town and buying waterproofer and new pack liners.
24th NOV. PORTHCURNO TO PENZANCE
Although we did not do alot of mileage today we were pleased we had got into Penzance 12 miles on.
We left the hostel in the dry walked up to St. JUST and took the bus back to Porthcurno.
By the time the bus got us there we were in drizzle. Basically it got heavier as the walk continued. The going was not to bad, the path a river in places and our waterproofs proved not good enough to hold out the wet. It was guttsy head down miserable mud walk. By the time we reached Mousehole the water was pouring down the road. I made no attempt to avoid puddles as my feet were soaked. The cuffs of my fleece was dripping and I tried to wringe them out as walked. To say we were wet was an understatement. We had to keep walking as we were getting to chilled if we stopped for breaks.
From Mousehole we walked via the coast road into wet Newlyn. It was so dark, only about 3.30 but it felt like 5. Newlyn had plenty of fishing boats in the harbour and which was the most I had seen for ages. Normally there seems to be leisure boats, yachts and dingys, actually appeared to be a working enviroment in a twee town.
Water roared under the little bridge just passed the post office. Rain rain.
We walked the front passed pirate theme businesses. Up to Penzance high street.
Dripping we popped into Wetherspoons and had a coffee. We did not care about what folk thought, we stripped our wet gear off and sat by the door supping one then two decent coffees with about six sachets of sugar in each coffee.
It was great to be in the dry.
After debating our options it was obvious that the tent was not an option so I phoned the nearby YMCA backpackers hostel. All ok we trekked there in the rain. We needed to dry out.
The hostel was nearly empty so we had a room to ourselves. It was a good thing as emptying our packs we discovered that our sleeping bags were damp. Our clothing and gear was spread out all over to dry. Luckily we have inner plastic bags as water had penetrated deep beyond our pack covers and kept water at bay, but small holes in the sleeping bag cover had allowed entry.
It was still raining on going to bed about 9 and was driven against the window by strong wind. So pleased to be inside.
Friday 23 November 2012
LANDS END
We reached Lands End at about 1 pm ,after dumping our packs in Lands End youth hostel ,near St.Justs ,5 miles back.Finished Porthcurno.
Gurnards Head.
This was a gale force day of hard walking , I was knocked off my feet twice, paths were muddy and my knees ached.
22nd Packing up at Wicca Pool
The time was about 7. 30 as J is out of the tent. I get out of tent first light if it is not raining giving J space to pack.I pack outside.
Tin Mine near Chapel Porth
Wet miserable day. Sheltered in the old building behind Josh. 30 mph winds and drizzle.
Tin Mine near Chapel Porth
Wet miserable day. Sheltered in the old building behind Josh. 30 mph winds and drizzle.
19th to 23rd NOV. NEWQUAY TO LANDS END
Brief over view due to lack of phone battery.
Finding it hard work over past few days. Knees are sore from climbing, weather ok, warm with odd mega down pore, gales, and few incidents which will come out in book.
Generally Cornwall is cream teas, pasties and surfing. Rugged coast, tin mines and smelly feet.
Covered over 1800 miles to Land End.
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