5th OCT. Great Castle Head to Upper Neeston bunkhouse nr.Milford Haven

We survived the rather blustery night.The rain was not as bad as I thought.
As we had no breaky or meths for tea we had a mug of water and Josh a pitta bread.  It was dry and stuck in his throat.
We were packed up and walking by 8 heading toward St Ann's Head. It was an easy flat walk , devoid of much undergrowth and this west side very exposed and dramatic.
2 miles on the coast guard station and lighthouse came into view.
As we gained the buildings we noticed the coast guard cottages were empty and for sale.
On the east side of the head the dynamics was totally different,  it was more rugged, more undergrowth,  trees in gullies and the path meandered in and out following various headlands.Views of Milford Haven were more prominent,  looking sinister like a scene from the Matrix or Bladerunner.
A few isolated beaches with access would normally attract me but my hunger drove me on to Dale.
We had hoped to get breaky there and I was running on empty lugging my 40 pound pack,  but nothing was open . A sign in the cafe with jolly wording stating see you in 2013 did not help. J and I sat drinking water and I was pleased J had not cleaned his pockets out for once as the odd nut and raisin helped alittle. On the map a post office is shown but again they are increasingly closed.
We walked on to the Gann Estuary and the tidal creek which to avoid a three mile detour inland waiting an hour
as the tide dropped for us to take the stepping stones. It was strange waiting , like waiting for paint to dry , wanting to get on , or at least feeling we should be making headway , but worth it if it dropped enough.We talked of wading but in the end patience paid off. We walked up to Herbrandston a mile on, discoveringa small shop oasis. Crisps and coke served to feed us as we sat with backs against the church wall staring at an empty playground, bliss! It was only a ten minute walk to the bunk barn at Upper Neeston Farm but it was hardly a bunk barn we were put in. For a £ 1 more than St Davids Yha hostel we were given a lodge which was expensive really a small appartment. The tidu homely sitting room kitchen was upstairs and double bed bedroom with on suite shower/toilet was equally comfortable. This was a palace in comparision to a hostel and at £35 for us both very competitve.Again the YHA need to get their act together if they are to compete with the independent hostel places. We were very aware that we were probably stinking the place out, competing successfully with the plug in air fresheners with were dotted around. It was so clean and tidy that we felt out of place and almost normal. The tv went straight on, flicking through the digi nox content to watch anything. We boiled the kettle, pressed the microwave buttons and flicked some more.

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