I slept incredibly well , and woke revived. I retrieved my gear from the drying room , packed up and tidied the room. I probably make more mess than most due to mud and debris on gear and try to eliminate as much of that and smells as I can, not always easy when I cannot smell myself, but I know it is there.
I went to the self catering kitchen and had a massive bowl of porridge , coffee and cleared away things. I left a note of thanks leaving at 8 , I was pretty keen to get going.It was drizzling when I exited , fine but wet. Back I went , removed pack and put on my waterproof jacket and was again off at 8.10.
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| Self catering kitchen, Green head Hostel |
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| Greenhead Inn |
I walked out along the road to Thirlwall Castle, I somehow missed the path next to the rail track, I seem to navigate poorly in built up areas.Then I was on the Hadrian's Wall again , minus the actual wall , I was here 6 months ago.
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| Thirlwall Castle |
I left the outskirts of Greenhead for a good well trodden path next to stone walls , not Had's, and farm fields.The drizzle became insistant. I walked passed the cafe /picnic area where I had stopped months before to tend to my feet , also where a group of walkers complained at the wet conditions, that was then in the sun , what would they say now. After a mile or so the wall appeared.It was not surprising that so much of the wall has been pilfered as the stone is dressed as opposed to the stone walling.The area is dominated by the old quarry , probably the source of the Walls stone supply.
I was amazed at the amount of folk present , it was a miserable day but still folk walked the Wall.About 20 young student type Americans walked by in dribs and drabs, amazed at thier lack of weather clothing and flimsy footwear, they seemed happy enough. In a way I liked the solitude of walking , one of the best things about doing the walk this time of year is the isolation and intrepid feeling , like I was the only one having done the hill or trail.
With increasing easterly wind accompanied by sleet I sheltered in a loo, and dried my trousers with the elec hand drier and ate a snicker choc bar. Someone came in and I felt better moving on than sat on my pack whilst someone used the urinal.I now wore my cape.
I again walked against driven sleet .A group of walkers passed me , one chap saying ' I bet someone told you the prevailing wind came from the west'. He was fairly jolly with the wind on his back , I was not. I had forgotten the ups and downs of this section , it was fairly physical.
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| Windshields Crags Trig 345m looking west |
The Pennine Way does not go as far as the famous section of the Wall, Housesteads, it stops about a mile short .I was in no mood to venture where I did not want to in these conditions , so where the Pennine Way leaves the Wall so did I...gladly going north.
I could see the flatness of terrain ahead from the Wall. I could also see the sky reflected in pools of water, it was going to be wet underfoot.
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| Looking back at the Wall from the north |
The route was fairly clear with the slabs leading the way, some sadly below water. I walked head down , the weather as bleak as the surrounding. It was a relief to get to the first of many conifer plantations I was to encounter between here and Kirk Yetholm , and relative shelter.
Some of the tracks were good going through the plantations but often turned on obscure paths which were wet and boggy. The snow that had fallen ,protected from the wind , was fairly fresh and I scooped handfalls and sucked it for re-hydration and cooling me down. Exposed on the moorland I was cool enough , but with the windless plantation I soon became hot and sweaty with the physical activity.
Signs of foxes and deer crossed and followed my route ,alas I did not see any wildlife except the odd crow.
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Scrambler Motor bikes had chewed up this section what fun!
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It was about 4 when I left the moorland and plantations behind me dropping to a stream and over a bridge , then up to farmland and a steading at Horneystead,..... the mind boggels.
There had been signs on posts stating that refreshments were available at Horneysteads, I could off done with something but a barking dog put me off asking. The way ahead skirted road, track and then briefly on road , zig zagging as opposed to striking north.
Light was dimming as I struck over moor, I was damp and a little chilled. I could see lights of Bellingham . I had already decided to ask at the campsite , it appeared open as it was lit up like a landing strip.
I met up with the road and walked to the camp/caravan site with the wooden barrack like buildings giving a military air . I could find no one there so asked at an adjacent bunglelow. A chap said he thought they were on holiday abroad,.... wise people..., and I asked if I could pitch on his land. He said that was fine and did I want a coffee.I peeled off my damp gear . The coffee became a pint , then another.
His children , who were home educated came in and out , but stayed in the background. We chatted for a spell until his wife turned up. She was a teacher and he an actor and incredibly welcoming. One minute I was going to pitch by the swings, next I was having a meal and half drunk on Speckled Hen beer, sleeping on their couch.....What a day!
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