Thursday, 11 April 2013

11th MARCH , 2013.LAMB HILL SHELTER VIA THE CHEVIOT to AUCHOPE MOUNTAIN REFUGE HUT



The few times I woke I could hear the wind hitting the hut from the eastern exposed side. The sound of driven snow striking the glass encouraged me to pull the hood of my sleeping bag tighter and muffle the noise of possible hard walking . I eventually woke for the day at 5 , it was dark , with a slightly less dark rectangle ,the window to the colder world outside.In the glare of the head torch the temperature gauge read  -3, it felt colder. I stayed in my sleeping bag while I busied myself with getting the breakfast . My breath created a fog , again able to blow rings much like a smoker would.




Around 7am I peeked outside the door, not so much for the view but a wee. There was a little more snow than yesterday, mainly of the small fine easily wind blown variety.

I tidied the hut , snow from my boots from my arrival still lay on the floor unthawed . My boots were solid , all moisture from sweat and general bog trotting had frozen creating heavy solid boots which I was not looking forward to putting on. I beat them on the concrete floor and tried to massage some flexibility into them. I loosened the laces , or at least I tried to as I found it awkward getting my feet into boots which seemed two sizes to small. I had renewed my socks foe cleaner and drier ones, any small pleasure of comfort was appreciated.The ones I had taken off last night were  sopping and now frozen in a plastic bag, a delight to open at a later date. I knew that my feet would warm up the frozen fabric and probably wet my socks but at least they will be warm for a spell.
I renewed the gaffer tape around my boots to prevent snow getting into them, it seemed to prevent the bulk of water rushing into the socks even if it did make me look like a vagrant. I noticed the stitching was wearing at the back of the boots but thyey should last me the rest of the Pennines.
Looking back toward the hut from Lamb Hill

Blizzard like conditions came and went through out the day.

The fence representing the border, I still walked on the English side.



Route showing slabs occasionally exposed giving clues of firm ground.
I set off around 8 in the sun, watching the clouds ahead brewing to the east . I knew that would mean blizzard conditions head on . It was not long before I was plunged into considerable darkness as the cloud and snow enveloped me . As soon as it came it was gone , much like a summer shower and again I was in bright sunshine tempered by the cold wind that bit at my ears .

The going was far from easy , I found it hard to locate the firmness of the slabs , and even when I did the snow had gathered in the hollows in between the heather . Sometimes the route was obvious , sometimes I found myself wading in three foot drifts  , or breaking through snow and ice to the boggy water below which soon froze  creating clumps of ice that seem to gather layers growing in size. These ice dreadlocks  clung annoyingly to the zip fobs and rattled as I made way. I stopped periodically to break the gathered ice from the hem edge but often unsuccessfully.



Ridge before Wyndy Gyle

 Blades of grass sticking out from the snow were coated in clear ice  , as I walked by these clumps they would clink like wine glasses. I would break off the odd blade and crunch it , I was pretty warm , anyone who has walked deep snow and heather knows the energy exerted.

Rime on fence wire




As I climbed up to Wyndy Gyle along the pre-cursor ridge the wind was channelled and increased creating swirls of spindrift. A pro-longed blizzard limited my world to my hood ,I could feel ice gathering on my tash and beard as I breathed heavily. Then it would clear into beautiful blue sky with excellent visibility . This was some of the more physical walking I had done during the entire venture.


Russell's Cairn on Wyndy Gyle












The route, although undulating along the Cheviot ridge, gained height gradually. I thought of mountaineers climbing, say Everest. I was doing this with plenty of oxygen and found this testing.Hats off to all altitude climbers.
I dropped slightly to the Kings Seat then onto Cairn Hill at 777 metres. I could see piles of slabs waiting to be laid, the wooden walk boards partly removed and stacked ready for removal. Wooden stakes where the walk boards were indicated the route but gave no help underfoot.




Sign Post to the Cheviot




This was a cross roads , either continue on a dog leg to The Cheviot ,or start the descent via The Schill to Kirk Yetholm. I had decided yesterday that I would do The Cheviot come what may as it seemed a pivotal part of the Pennine Way.
I believe this part of the walk can be wet , guided by slab path, but none were visible and the ground was solid and fairly easy going . Ice underfoot was the main concern and I contemplated putting crampons on. Between the snow was large sections of ice sheet which was knobbly affording some grip. The sign post on Cairn Hill was totally obliterated by rime showing the prevailing wind from the east.It was thankfully a fairly  easy walk with intermittent wind driven flurries, which I stood with back to  until passed.




I finally reached The Cheviot at 815 metres, the highest point in Northumberland, at almost 1pm. , the trig point was totally white with rime . A combination of sun and whiteness had me squinting wishing I had shades. 



I did not hang around, retracing the route back via Cairn Hill . I could see a  yellow helicopter bringing slabs to the tops, at first I thought it was a rescue helicopter as it had swung northward but returned with its load slung beneath it. Three chaps in yellow jackets seemed to be supervising the drops from the ground , these were the only people seen over two days. I nodded manly as I passed by wanting to avoid hindering their operations. The helicopter must of made five journeys in the next 30 mins. Obviously conditions were good enough to fly in , I was not as intepid as I had felt.
Helicopter bringing slabs
As I descended from the tops I could see the Auchope Mountain Refuge Hut and my nights stop. It was a fairly steep descent , and scary. The side of the hill on Auchope Cairn was ice clad and I lay down desperate to slow my downward motion, I had no grip  and slid uncontrollably .It was a good job I was able to brake using my heels and pack creating friction. I tentatively made it over to the border fence and use the gripped wire to control my speed .
Descent to Auchope Hut
I finally entered the hut . It was not such a cosy affair as Lambs Hill , there was not the double skin cladding, the door had plenty of gaps for the spindrift to push through leaving a pile by the door and the benches with a fine layer like dust.

I lay my gear out then went outside to work out the lack of water situation. I could see there was a burn in the valley below so climbed packless down to it to gather the necessary 2 litres . I also restocked by melting snow on the stove.On return it was about 4pm, I hung up the tent over the door both as a draught excluder and to prevent excess snow being blown in.

It was bloody cold, I soon climbed into the sleeping bag to warm up making numerous teas.  I positioned my boots above me hoping any surplus heat from my bod would  prevent them freezing, some hope! A few flurries created a fine particles of icy dust swirls in the  torch light to settle on  surfaces  from the drafty air, making for a dampness to all in the -2.

Noodles for supper, and a clear signal of Radio Scotland.


1 comment:

  1. Those huts on the Cheviot ridge are very welcome and I have slept in the more northern on which is about 6m into Scotland.The southern one is about 2m inside England but I've never had the pleasure of bunking down in it.They are not technically bothies,like Greg's Hut,but mountain refuge huts although the distinction is moot.

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