Tuesday, 4 December 2012

3rd DEC. near POLKERRIS to PORTNADLER BAY

It was dry on waking at 6. I did not mean to doze but I did, to 6.30. I got the porridge and tea on. Normally after breaky I like to lay and sup tea for half hour, we were pushed for time so only had 10 mins.
There was a breeze this morning and I hung damp waterproofs on the fence next to the path, looking like a line of scarecrows. It was fairly dark getting out again but mildish.
Walking at eight, we soon dropped to Polkerris with small pub and converted to trendy cafe lifeboat shed. We had a fair climb from the cove through trees,  I just noticed the trees were bare and a mulch of leaves made the going easier than mud. From then on the path was hard going, it was a slight incline to Gribbin Head but the path was mud and hard to get traction. I was soaked in sweat on arriving at the tall red and white day mark on the head. It had taken an hour.
We dropped to a quaint little bay and beautiful house before climbing and coastal hugging to Fowey.
This appeared the pinnacle of expensive homes.  One terraced house cost £1 ,175,000. There were some lovely properties which we walked by to the ferry quay. I had seen a boat that looked like a ferry but it never came here.
I popped to the shop,  and asked how often the ferry sailed,  apparently every 15 mins.
I got back and J informed me that the ferry did not sail from there and maybe we had to walk round.He read on and then realised the ferry goes from the town quay. I watched the actual ferry cross again to Polruan. We picked up packs and carried them to the said quay. In no time the ferry arrive with max capacity of twelve but on this trip there was only 4 of us.£1.60 each was the fare and to not walk round made it well worth it.
On the other side at Polruan it was obvious this was where the workers were kept,  Foweys poorer neighbour. This must be where Foweys window cleaners come from. There were fishing boats being worked on and a general atmosphere of normality in the folk there. Road works were being done and van blocked me getting passed as my pack was to wide ,we went for a coffee instead of fighting our way passed. It was ok but only ok.
Leaving ,the van had gone.
The next 6.5 miles to POLPERRO was hard going,  mainly due to the cliff ups and downs,  luckily the path was alot drier. Halfway at West Combe we stopped for lunch,  cheese sandwiches and tea sitting on the grass feeling tired and pleased for the stop.
We had finished our snack and was supping tea when another,  rare, walker backpacker came along. He was travelling our direction having started in Marazion. Apparently he had attempted to do this section before ,in the summer ,but had to call it off due to a twisted ankle. We sat talking for a spell , and I showed him where we aimed to pitch that eve  before he powered off.  I did not enjoy the thought of constant crossing paths.
We got on to Polperro,  walking through the dingly dell village. It was quiet , probably explained by the numerous holiday cottages we passed. We had hoped to find a spot to sit and get water but ended up walking on a mile to Talland.
We stopped at the public loo and had a drink of water. My toes were rubbed by the damp socks , I was wanting to dress the sores but our fellow backpacker turned up in the drizzle. The loo was small so I abandoned foot care. He gathered water and left before us.
The next stage was diverted due to another landslip.This took us up the road for half a mile then rejoined the coast path. It was still drizzling, we passed our backpacker friend at our would be pitch but gathered water and cracked on.  We could not go far because of entering the village of Looe. It was hard finding a pitch but we did up from the path shielded by gorse.
I was tired and damp with sweat and had fallen twice in the last half hour. My trousers were mud smeared and I had to remove them to prevent getting my sleeping bag dirtier. I was also irritable. A time I wish Josh was not there as I was snappy at him.
We got tent up and I put thermal bottoms on, it took ages for me to warm up comfortably. We had a couple of mugs of tea then more cheese sandwiches.
A few rain showers but hardly any wind will ensure a wet tent tomorrow morning.

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