25th May, 2012

There was a light mist in the Dale, I had woken at six but dozed until seven. I got out the pee bowl to spare me the premature exit from my cosy sleeping bag , carefully placing it outside and not mixing it up with my water bowl. I got the water on the gas for my tea and porridge.

Although damp and misty outside it was warm. I exited the tent to eat breaky then rolled the bag and mat and went through my routine of packing the sac. I had brought far to much stuff, but I had needed to know what my body could handle and I knew for the actual trip in August I will have to cut down or get alot stronger. It has been a shock to me how out of condition I have got. For most of the winter I have poured over maps, tried to get sponsors , and to liaise with various organisations. I had got computer lazy. I know now that I have to get fitter.

Since being made redundant from my job as a gardener/handiman eight months ago ,  I have noticed that my recent employment is not helping at all , my bod is not used to lethargy . I need to get my fitness back . That is not to say I am not fit in comparision to others, it is just I am used to being ultra fit and expect alot from myself. This is a wake up.

At 7.45 , packed ,I had a relaxed walk along the meandering beck , the sun having burnt off the morning mist, it was still, and only the odd flushed grouse seemed to be awake. The way marking posts were weather worn and in certain areas so was the path , winter had certainly taken its toll.

I felt good , feet felt ok and the pack seemed lighter apart from the odd wet peat spot I had to negotiate .  I passed the metal shelter next to a sheep fold and no doubt would of stopped if the weather had dictated otherwise.

Eventually I reached the wall with signpost indicating for me to move away from the beck and to meet up with the other routes Mr.Green and Mr. Red.I realise it is not the done thing to do the said route this time of year, apparently Aug-nov is the allocated time.  To my credit I did the blue route because of the camping prospects.
On the post, amongst a multitude of do's and do nots, was Ravenseat Farms cafe list. That posed a question, do I stop because I feel obliged to add to farm funds , or ignore the beckoning farm wife as I pass through the farm yard. Well after a fifteen minute walk I watched Mrs Farmers wife get into her car and ride away, closed sign in place . They obviously saw me coming .

I followed the coast to coast route via the farm yard unassaulted and continued passed various dale barns . These barns were in great condition , almost to good for my liking . A barn in Healaugh, about 10 miles east , in similar condition ,was going for £170,000 , madness. How lucky these folk are to live in such a stunning area.

I trundle through gate, stile, sheep pen , peering down deep chasm until I met a tired looking couple coming the other way, a cheery hello , is the Ravenseat cafe open ? I had to give them the 'no' when I passed ,' but you never know they may be open when you get there'-hope!

I continued on to the road , passed a old house on a track , abandoned , but probably housed someones mother , hardy dales folk.I know i should of taken the high track but I wanted to see the Wain Wath Force (falls), I so fancied a swim . The rest of the journey to Keld was by road, passed a yurt in a camp site, and a photo opportunity from the Park Bridge

Keld was a surprise , seemed swamped by churches , even a bearded priest sat outside reading . A cheery hello was exchanged by all. I was going to pass through without stopping  but as I desended into the village I passed a quaint farm cafe, with newly mowed grass and picnic tables. It said 'open', so looking into my noteless wallet and the £1.60 in its pouch encouraged me to lash out and spoil myself with two cold cans of coke. I put one in my pack and guzzled the other. Yum. I sat for a few minutes taking in the surroundings, clean , tidy , for want of a better adjective-nice.

Picking up my pack I followed the footpath to the junction where I would leave  the Coast to Coast and rejoin the Pennine Way. As the Coast to Coast dropped away to my left I started the gentle pale yellow primrosed climb to skirt Kisdon Hill. I was thankful for the shade of trees lining the initial stage, and a slight breeze air cooled me . As I gained a little height the path became more stoney encouraging me to keep my eyes on the path to avoid a fall. I realised I was walking on conglomerates of fossils, pausing briefly I  took a small slither with me.As if I didn't need more weight.

The path eased and opened out to a fantastic view looking east down the River Swale.From here I followed the signposts avoiding the Muker directions and onto the descent to Thwaite.Randy Green Hairstreak butterflies and Common Heath moths were on the wing in desperation of making up for the weather . I could see my van where I abandoned  it  2 days ago ,now baking in the sun , thankfully it was white. Always a relief to see it after a jaunt in the hills .

I walked via Thwaite and a short uphill to my van , peeled off my pack and boots and drove back down Swaledale to a sunny Richmond, shower and readjustment of plans.

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24th May , 2012

The next morning ,after a good sleep , I got my porridge ready and kit packed away and again in the sun continued down the trail .

My feet were not doing that well, I had a blister on the sole of my right foot . My boots felt tight and I had to stop about a mile on to relieve them. Not a good start. Saying that I was enjoying the view down into the Eden Valley.
The stroll down to the road /River Eden was gentle and easy going, it was here my brief encounter with the Pennine Bridle Path ended , a taster of  the future.

I was now to dabble with the Eden Walk, a river hugging ditty to Kirkby Stephen. It was idylic, although not a national trail well sign posted following the west bank , past castles and through silage reeking farm yards. A red squirrel hopped across the bridge parapet, I wasn't even sure they were in this area,   I am sure if I had hung around longer a Dipper would of skipped across a few stepping stones.

I strolled into Kirkby Stephen with two things in mind , a cold drink and blister patches. Alot of building work was going on on the outside of KS and I can understand what a beautiful area it would be to live .

I popped into a charity shop and bought a rather pathetic hat ,  the top of my bald head was feeling the heat , found a quite spot in the church grounds , supped my drink and peeled my socks off to see the damage done . The relief was amazing on replacing the offensive boots.

I strolled out via Stephens , or was it Kevins Bridge , ideal dog walking territory. Somehow I lost my bearings and somehow ended up at the dis-used railway viaduct. After a faff I re gained the main trail , now on the Coast to Coast.

Again the heat of the afternoon was kicking in , it was a gentle up hill, skirting a quarry ,on the road towards Hartley Fell and the blue route to Nine Standards. I was so hot , even the animal trough water quenched me little. I could see the Nine Standards from some way-away ,and the up hill just made them seem further away.Eventually after numerous water breaks I made it, putting on a 'this is easy' face to a couple I had just disturbed.

 I asked the  couple to stand as size scale for the stones ,then continued along the flattish ridge to the trig point and down to the infamous wet peat route sign post,  three routes - red , blue and green . A chap earlier had informed me that a couple of folk had to be winched out of the bog on the blue route. Typical , my route! I headed at about 100 degrees , over fairly wet peaty land , but found it surprisingly easy to Whitsun Dale , I wished I had put my gaiters on . I pitched the tent  near the beck and slept for about 2 hours before  making noodle supper. My croccs are by fair the best foot wear for the end of day.I  bathed my feet in cool stream , washing them with sphagnum moss.

I read a little before bed, making notes of the walk and things I need to improve on ; re-do route time plan , look at lighter boots and better socks , basics but important things. I lay outside the tent in my bag , the stars not as good as I had expected as a thin veil of cloud dulled the effect. I went to the tent about ten with the sound of snipe drumming hypnotically in my ears.

Cotterdale- Pennine Bridle Path

It felt strange leaving the Pennine way after just six miles to head toward Cotterdale . I was pretty hot by the time I made the stream below , pouring water down my back to cool off , it must of been 25 degrees.
However , the stream meant the bottom of the hill and now I had a fairly steep climb to gain the  flat topped Thwaite Bridge Common and eventually pick up the Pennine Bridle Path. I hated that climb , the air was still , the heat oppressive and for some reason my thigh muscles kept cramping. Scary stuff as I had only done about eight miles.
As I got to the top a lime kiln , which looked in pretty good condition , for an old piece of stonework , afforded another brief respite and anther mouthful of Dales water.The trip to Hells Gill, which sounds abit ominous, is fairly flat and easy going
and before long I was pitching the tent and lying prone thinking 'What the hell am I doing ?'

Training Walk- Thwaite

I  had to get out , away from my computer and into the Dales. The sun was shining , and after the past few weeks of incredibly wet , dull and generally miserable weather the great outdoors beckoned .

I have been planning a National Trails walk for the last year , and now I have thrown off my anti- Facebook /Twitter attitude in a bid to promote the walk and the chosen charity-AGE UK.

I  canceled a day of work and in my little white van drove the  20 miles to Thwaite , Swaledale. Here I abandoned the vehicle,  donned my boots and with back pack in place I joined the Pennine Way to climb to Great Shunner Fell (716m). I felt strong , and purposeful. What really drove me on was half-a-dozen army bods on some sort of yomp . I was determined not to have them over take me before the top. I was sure they would stop at the trig for a break , so I thought I would continue to head down toward Hawes  to get away from them , five minutes later they trotted passed me.

 I eased back as they disappeared into the distance. I focused on my setting , the well trodden path ,  the Lapwings wheeling around me screeching insistently , and Golden Plover trying to distract me, with bobbing calls from  rock perch , I did not fancy chick or egg today. What I did need was a drink of water , the mid day sun and my determination had made 'man dry '. I sat by a stone wall unable to escape the sun and ate a oat cake,  and drink much needed fluid. Another troop of army clad bods , also joined me 20 yards away , these ones female and they did have a break.
I continued on only to have the females in their camo fatigues and heavy looking packs jog past me , obviously not much of a break!